My new French friends.
I recently had the luxury of being invited to a little town in the South of France called LaCroix-Valmer by my new girlfriend who said: “you must ride there “. Keeper , right ?
I did a quick search and was able to rent a nice carbon Scott bike at Blue bikes about a mile from where we are staying. They seem to be a chain around the south and rent everything from road, mountain, ebikes, mopeds, and motorcycles.
When I picked up the bike I asked about group rides and the best they could muster was to tell me about the local club in nearby Cavalaire and gave me the phone number of the club President, Jean Michelle. Fortunately, my host was fluent and we called Michelle and told him some silly American was here and wanted to ride with them. He gave me the meeting spot for their Friday “coffee ride” and said it was an easy 40k to St. Tropez.
I was expecting something similar to the Friday MDR ride so I showed up rocking my LG50 kit figuring the french flag might be an ice breaker. It was a very civilized start time of 8:30 AM probably because everyone there was either retired or on vacation. No one spoke English but they were all very welcoming and I had many bonjours & ca va’s and most were shocked when I said I was from Los Angeles. I guess they don’t get many people crashing their club ride but one did say the rides were “ouvert “. I definitely stuck out like a sore thumb and as everyone rolled in the old guys would point at me and say “French French French , blah blah blah , California, and ‘sprinter’ ”. I guess I wasn’t really built for their terrain, which I was soon to find out.
One rider finally showed up who spoke a bit of English and was able to give me a little lay of the land. He would point to the wheel in front of me and say to “stay on those”. Not really sure why on an easy “coffee ride” but duly noted.
At 8:30 on the dot, we rolled out of town at a very comfortable tempo. It wasn't until we turned uphill that some of the guys started throwing down the gauntlet, especially as scooters would go by and they would jump on them and motorpace. We rolled along the ridgeline back through La Croix Valmer, Ramatuelle and Escalet then into downtown St. Tropez, where we dodged all the tourists gawking at the superyachts. The roads were well paved if a bit narrow but most cars would sit behind and maintain a respectable distance other than one Audi driver with a bike rack; go figure. I think we came back roughly the same way but I was too busy wondering why I was working so hard on a Friday "cafe" ride. We ended up doing only around 40k but almost 3000 feet of climbing. I decided they were pleasant enough to show back up on Sunday for their 100k ride.
Sunday morning....my English-speaking friend was gone so the only info I was able to get was a map from the club Facebook page.
I was a little hesitant because it looked like around 10k feet of climbing with two big cols and finishing back through a town I had visited the day before, Gassin, which had some 18/19 % climbs at the end of the ride. With the heat, humidity and my rental bike with punishing aluminum wheels and a too short stem, I wasn't sure I was in the mood for that kind of ride. I pointed at my wahoo and asked a few of the guys in very broken french how high but I got lots of shrugs back and they just said "lots of up". From my earlier ride I knew there was an A & B group but it was never any mention of it and we just dropped the B group 2 minutes into the ride towards Royal Canadel and they were never seen again. We continued along the coast, ocean on our left just like anySaturday on PCH. However, the Pepperdine Hill came every couple of miles. Hill, town, hill, town, repeat. We rolled through Cavaliere, Lavandou, Mimosa and a bunch of other places I've never heard of or cannot pronounce. The pace was comfortable and there were giant sections that you would turn off the road onto gorgeous bike paths. They were well marked and had very few if any hazards. As soon as we took a right turn off the coast, I knew there would be some climbing ahead. After the first climb, there was a nature break and these guys just did their business and rolled out again in 2 minutes. No chit chat for them. We climbed over into the Provence valley and the roads (and heat ) reminded me exactly of Solvang. They began to put the hammer down and we crested over into the beautiful village of Collobriere where I was told there was a water break (or at least they nodded when I held up my empty water bottles).
Here's the fun part - as I approached the local market and pulled out some money, they shook their heads and said: "free". Then the local shopkeeper walked out with a crate of water like it was preordained and sat it down and we passed the bottles around. Can you imagine the 76 station at Trancas doing such a thing? Again, very little chit chat and we rolled back out of town and hit our “first” climb. We climbed the col de Babaou, which was marked as 5k but is actually 6.6K with a mild average of 4.4%. The reward at the top of the forest was the most gorgeous views and a twisty 12K descent and brakes were never needed. There were no cars in sight and the only thing you had to worry about was all the cyclists coming up the opposite direction.
At the bottom of the descent, we came to an intersection and were still about 1000 ft. above sea level. There was a semi fire road with a railing across and there was a lot of debating about if we should enter. It seemed with all the fires in the area many of the roads were closed and I was hoping we were going to continue our descent down back into Lavendou but alas, a rider came from the opposite direction saying the road was closed but after some more chit chat they said “president decides” and we rolled out once again onto the “closed” fire road. We rode the beautiful ridgeline back along the coast climbing back up to around 2000 ft. and entered another gorgeous protected forest before we took our final descent back into Royal Canadel. At this point, I was relieved due to the fires, that we were not hitting the next Col nor dealing with the steep pitches and heat of Gassin. One more little hump and a lightning fast descent and we were back in Cavalaire. As we rolled into town one of the guys made a drinking motion and waved to follow him and we ended up at La Rhum Caffee, their title sponsor, and I treated my new friends to a round of drinks. I showed them all pictures of our website and our founder, Raymond and invited them to come join us on the World Famous Nichols ride. So, if you happen to see some guys from Velo Club de Cavalaire decked out in pink and blue, please extend them the kindness they showed me.
Dan